Saturday, July 20, 2013

"Y" is for "Yikes! Look at that spider!"

Before I tidy up my jungle story, I'd better tell you about the night walk. We each had our headlamps and Elvis led us down a trail that meandered past our lodge and headed into the bush. It didnt really seem that dark, or that creepy, what with all our lights and our chatter. We saw a thin, white snake in a tree, nothing "anaconda-ish" at all and lots of army ants that were on maneuvers of some sort...busy, busy. You can step over  them easy enough,  but god forbid you step in them and end up with them running up your pant leg. Nobody wants those ants in their pants.

We also saw a lot of stick insects, which are just so, well, so "stick-ish". I kinda liked them.

Then, Elvis started showing us the spiders. I think there was a spider on every leaf in the jungle. And let me tell you, they were as big as my hand. And they were on every leaf he shone his light on. And I couldn't even back up against a tree because they were camouflaged there too! And geez, the path was so narrow that you couldn't walk without brushing against trees and leaves and I was feeling all sorts of creepy-crawly things in my hair and on my back. And you could never faint because you'd surely fall against a tree or leaf that was spider laden. It was extremely nerve wracking. I don't know why I assumed that jungle spiders would be on the ground. Which is where they should be. A spider on the ground is escape-able quite easily, a spider running along a branch above you is an enemy to be feared.
A shiver inducing visible spider.
A more shiver inducing invisible spider. Can you see it?

So that was...ummm...interesting.
Then we stood in the middle of the path and Elvis said we were going to turn all our lights out, and not speak and just experience how quiet and dark the jungle really is.

As our lights went out, one by one, the jungle became pitch black. Pitch black. I've never experienced such an ultimate darkness. It was like being wrapped in black velvet. The rainforest canopy kept the starlight out, and since we were miles and miles from any city, there was no light pollution at all. I know what it means now, when I read the words "a suffocating darkness" It was like the dark was something physical that was pressing against my face. I can see why this is something that the guides are interested is sharing with us, it was very unusual. It was almost uncomfortable. Especially the silence....it was so quiet. Then of course, I started thinking about every bad horror movie I've ever seen....you know the kind, where the foolish group does something that the whole audience is shaking their heads at...and then when the silence becomes unbearable and they turn on their lights, half of the group is gone with nothing but a trail of blood leading off into the jungle.

But that didn't happen.

However, we went back to the dining hall and little bar, and sat outside while the Elvis and Ricardo told us some truly scary stories and local legends. All very ghostly and creepy. The mosquitoes were out and I needed my spray so I went back to my room, which, as I've mentioned before, was at the far end of the grounds, with nothing but forest behind me. With nothing but my little headlamp. And again, I could hear the audience shouting:"Are you stupid? You don't go wandering off in the pitch black, with an inexpensive headlamp that's gonna go dead any moment, with fresh stories of the evil jungle spirits in your mind....with little noises I the bush and your room at the far end of the path....and no one really expecting your return....this is the end for you, foolish woman"

But that didnt happen either.

I grabbed my big spray and ran back to the safety of the little bar and enjoyed the rest of my evening, listening to ghost stories.

Inside the little bar which I only frequented to buy the occasional bottle of water until,I discovered a deep freeze that was hooked up to a generator that was well stocked with these:
A most delectable candy bar, which I sadly didn't discover until it was time to leave. *sigh*

Now, when you go to Tambopata, as I think you should, you might not want to go on pirhana feeding trips, or spend a sweltering hot afternoon at a deserted farm, or hike for hours up a muddy trail to look for an elusive macaw, or go on a night time spider walk, but there are still other wonderful things to do. You can relax on your deck with a good book, or sleep in a hammock and let your cares vanish.


You can walk down a path and find yourself at "the swimming hole".



And even though it looks like not much more than a mud puddle, it was a lovely little spot to have a swim.  A part of the river was shored up a bit and turned into a spot to cool off. 

 
And to look for things above you...

Or look for things below you....

Or even just wander down a path and find a corner to be alone.
 
And for the adventurous, you can clamber up some nets to the top of the trees for astounding view of the canopy. (This is Terry, from our group, but I didn't take this picture, so apologies to the photographer, I'm not sure who it was.)
There really is something for everyone here, it was a little piece of paradise. Well, it wasn't really, the spiders put a damper on the paradise part, but it was pretty darn close. Oh, and other than the 35C heat and nearly 100% humidity. But other than that, I could have stayed an awful lot longer. Especially once I discovered the stash of Sublime Chocolate Bars. 

But alas, all too soon it was time to go. I doubt very much that I'll have the chance to go back, so many other places to explore, but I'd sure love to have the opportunity to return some day. 
This is how safe it felt...there was only one key per room, so if you were going somewhere and your roommate was going somewhere else, you'd drop your key here so the first person back would have a way to get into the cabin. So, your key to your room, with your room number on it was left out for anyone to take. And more than that, the little key for the "safe" (read: locked dresser drawer)  was also attached....no one had any hesitation is leaving their keys laying around. Kara and I didn't even bother to lock our door. You don't feel that comfortable in many places anymore.


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